After two days of brutal cold it finally started to warm up here a little. We had spent the first two days at Nameless Wall mostly in the Bingo Cave not climbing very much. There are a few routes in the cave that are supposed to be some of the most difficult in North America that I was really hoping to try, but the cold was making it very difficult. On Sunday near the end of the day I finally got on the most hyped up route there, "Inglorious Bastards" which was originally rated M13 and for the time being has settled at M12.
|
Happy to have an extra heavy down jacket and puffy pants. |
My first try on it I just wanted to find the holds and check out the moves. I was fortunate to have Whit Magro show me where most of the holds were so I wouldn't need to spend much time searching around. When I finally got to start climbing the route I was shocked at how easy the moves felt. I was expecting the holds to be small and technical and the moves to be big. It is however a pretty long roof so the forearm pump would definitely be a factor when linking all the moves together. I was also a bit worried because the big ice dagger at the back of the cave had just broken off eliminating a good stance a couple moves into the business of the horizontal roof making the route full value.
|
The first hard move. |
|
Its a long way to the lip of the roof. |
On Monday the temps were a lot warmer than they had been, but still pretty cold for hard climbing. For my warm up I climbed Inglorious bolt to bolt to refresh
my mind about where the holds were and workout the foot holds a little
better. After belaying my wife on her project, "The Straights of Gibraltar" it was time to try to piece everything together. I didn't really expect to link the whole route first try, but I took a long a few ice screws and some gear to build an anchor just in case.
|
Rebecca working on The Straights of Gibraltar. |
Starting out I felt good, but unsure how things would go. Getting into the roof I hit a rhythm and quickly worked my way out the huge roof. Before I new it I was getting close to the lip and at the first pseudo stance and could shake my arms out a little. I made the last clip and another move or two and I got into a stance with a good foot hold where I could get some recovery in my arms before doing the last move to get to the ice. The last move is also the most tenuous, so I had to make sure to do it as smoothly as possible. Any thrutching around would have likely made my pick slip out of the shallow pocket as I swung my body around 180 degrees to kick my feet into the ice.
|
Tagging the ice. |
|
After getting established on the ice I hung out for a while and worked the lactic acid out of my arms before swinging around to the front of the ice curtain. |
|
|
|
Easy cruising up the vertical ice |
|
|
|
I'm super happy to have climbed this route. I did it in three tries total over two very cold days. Thanks to Rusty and Justin Willis who were there and snapped some photos of my ascent.
No comments:
Post a Comment